Müstair is a village at the far eastern end of Switzerland, tucked into the Val Müstair, a high green valley that looks toward Italy and has more in common with South Tyrol than with Zurich. Romansh is still spoken here, along with German and Italian, and the pace of life is gentle, with farms, barley fields and old houses with painted fronts. The great glory is the Benedictine Convent of St John, which tradition says was founded around 775 by Charlemagne, and which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Inside the church, the ninth-century Carolingian frescoes cover the walls in rows of painted scenes, some of the oldest of their kind in Europe, and the effect is quietly overwhelming.
The ride to get here is one of the best in eastern Switzerland. The Ofen Pass, at about 2,150 metres, climbs through the Swiss National Park, the country's only national park, founded in 1914 and strictly protected. There are no stops allowed off the road other than at designated parking places, no dogs and no camping, and you should obey this, because rangers do. The forest of mountain pine and larch is thick and aromatic, and red deer, chamois and marmots are common, particularly in the early morning. The road itself is wide and flowing, with smooth bends and good views.
Fuel in the valley is thin, so check your range. The sensible approach is to fill the tank in Zernez before the pass or across the border in the Italian town of Mals, a short ride from Müstair, where prices are often lower. The village of Tubre, just over the frontier in Italy, is the nearest settlement on the other side, and the border is usually a quick formality, though you should carry your documents. The Umbrail Pass, a side road leading to the Stelvio, is a fine temptation for the next day.
Food in the valley is simple and good: barley soup, rye bread, cured meat and the walnut tart of Graubünden. The convent has a small museum and a shop. Weather can change quickly in this region, with cold and rain even in summer, and the pass is closed in winter. Late summer and early autumn are a good time, when the larches turn and the air is crisp. Müstair is a quiet place to finish, and it rewards anyone who stays longer than an hour.