The northern tip of an island in the Spree in the middle of Berlin holds five museums that between them cover about six thousand years of human history. The Museumsinsel, or Museum Island, grew out of a decision in the nineteenth century by the kings of Prussia to build a cultural centre in the heart of the capital, and the buildings, in neoclassical and neo-baroque style, were added one by one until the 1930s. UNESCO listed the ensemble in 1999. Among the treasures are the Pergamon Altar, the Ishtar Gate of Babylon, and the bust of Queen Nefertiti, which sits in the Neues Museum.
The story of the island is also the story of Berlin's twentieth century. The museums were bombed in the Second World War, much of their collections moved or lost, and the buildings left damaged in East Berlin for decades. After reunification a long rebuilding programme, led by the architect David Chipperfield for the Neues Museum, brought them back, and the contrast between old stone and new restoration is part of the interest. Next door, the huge cathedral and the Lustgarten add to the mass of the place.
Riding to and around the island is a matter of urban patience. The centre of Berlin has wide avenues such as Unter den Linden, trams with slippery rails, cobbled side streets and heavy traffic, and parking close to the museums is difficult. Motorcycle bays exist in the area, but you may do better to park a little further away and walk. Traffic lights are strict, and cyclists and scooters can appear from any direction. Weekday mornings are busier, and a quiet Sunday morning is a gentler time to ride through the centre.
Fuel stations are few in the very middle of the city, so top up on the outskirts. The district around the island has countless cafés, bars and restaurants, ranging from simple snack stalls to grand dining rooms, and the Hackescher Markt area nearby is lively in the evening. Book timed tickets in advance for the busier museums, and allow at least a morning, since one building alone can occupy a couple of hours.