Murom is a city that appears in the oldest Russian chronicles, with a heroic legend attached. The chronicle of 862 mentions it as one of the towns given to Rurik's men, and it was a centre of Finno-Ugric tribes before the Slavs arrived. It stands on the high right bank of the Oka, and the river, wide and brown, curves past with floodplain meadows and pine woods on the far side. Today the city has about a hundred and twenty thousand people, with a mix of old churches, factories, and quiet streets lined with wooden houses.
Folklore gave Murom its two famous residents. The first is Ilya Muromets, the epic warrior of the Russian bylinas, who sat paralysed for thirty years before a wandering stranger healed him, and who then became the greatest of the bogatyrs, defender of Kyiv and the Russian land. His statue stands on the embankment, and the villagers of Karacharovo, nearby, still claim him as a local. The second is the story of Peter and Fevronia, a prince and a peasant woman who lived in Murom in the thirteenth century, according to tradition, and who were so devoted that they died on the same day. The Orthodox Church honours them as patron saints of marriage, and the eighth of July is celebrated as the Day of Family, Love and Fidelity.
In modern times, Murom produced Vladimir Zworykin, who was born here in 1888 and became a pioneer of electronic television in the United States. The city also has a long tradition of baking, and the local pretzel-like kalach is a regional treat.
The ride from Vladimir follows the Oka valley through forest and farmland, with gentle curves and a mostly decent surface. Traffic is moderate, with trucks on the main road, and the best seasons are May to September. Spring floods can cover the lowlands, and in winter, the road is often icy. Take care crossing the bridges, where the surface can be rough, and watch out for speed cameras on the approaches to town.
Fuel and food are no trouble in a city of this size, with several stations, supermarkets, cafés and hotels. It is a convenient place to rest, with a lively riverside promenade and a good supply of traditional Russian food. Look at the river in the evening, with the sun low. It has not changed much in a thousand years.