Murghab is a town at the top of the world, or close to it. At around 3,600 metres on the high Pamir plateau in eastern Tajikistan, it is among the highest settlements in Central Asia, a scatter of low buildings and shipping containers set on a vast, cold desert of gravel, with bare mountains standing on every side. The air is thin and dry, the sky is an intense blue, and the nights can fall well below freezing even in summer. In winter, temperatures drop to minus thirty or lower.
The town is the commercial heart of the Eastern Pamirs, and its population is mostly Kyrgyz, descendants of herders who live in the highlands with yaks and sheep, so you will often see felt hats, yurts and women in bright scarves. The bazaar is a row of repurposed containers selling basics, and the guesthouses offer simple beds and warm food. Nearby, the plateau holds the Marco Polo sheep, the great-horned argali that the Venetian traveller described in his account, though they are difficult to see.
The Pamir Highway passes through here on its way from Khorog to Osh. East of Murghab the road climbs to the Ak-Baital pass, at about 4,655 metres the highest point on the highway, before dropping to Lake Karakul, a deep salt lake that fills a crater, at nearly 3,900 metres. The road surface varies, from good tarmac to broken stretches and washboard gravel, and the altitude takes its toll on both riders and machines. Fuel carburation changes and engines lose power, and headaches, nausea and sleeplessness are common. Take time to acclimatise, drink plenty of water and descend if symptoms become severe.
Murghab has fuel, though supply can be erratic and the quality uncertain, so carry a reserve, and ask at the guesthouses where to find petrol. Bring cash in Tajik somoni, since cards rarely work. Meals are simple, with bread, soup, noodles and strong tea.
Summer, from June to September, is the only reliable season, and even then, snow can fall any day.