Climate is the strongest force in Bahrain, and the Murad Majlis, a guest room in the old merchant quarter of Muharraq, is a good place to think about it. The island lies in the shallow western Gulf, where the sea is warm as a bath, the air is thick with moisture and summer temperatures routinely pass forty degrees. Before air conditioning, the buildings of Muharraq were the response: thick walls, shaded courtyards, tall rooms, and lanes narrow enough that the sun rarely touched the ground.
The word that Bahrainis use for the northwesterly wind is the shamal, and it blows on and off through much of the year, bringing dust and rough water in winter and early summer. In late summer the humidity becomes the main problem, with night temperatures that barely fall and a sticky stillness that wraps the whole island. A rider who has come from Europe in July will find the heat is like a hair dryer in the face, and the sensible response is the one the locals use: ride early, sit out the middle of the day, and come out again after dusk.
Winter is a different country. From November to March the days are mild, with clear skies, light winds and temperatures in the low to mid twenties, and the old town is at its best. The Murad Majlis, like its neighbours, repays a visit in the cooler months, when the doors are open, the courtyards are pleasant and there are people in the lanes. Look at the thick plastered walls, the high ceilings and the shuttered windows, and you can see how the climate drove the design.
Practical details are easy. Muharraq is small, flat and densely built, with a ring of busy roads around the old quarter. The lanes inside are narrow, with blind corners, and parking is tight, so leave the bike on a main road and go on foot. Fuel is cheap and stations are common in Muharraq and nearby Manama. Drink plenty of water, wear light clothes that cover your arms, and remember that the sun is stronger than it feels, especially with the reflection off pale walls. A cold lime and mint juice from a corner cafe is the local answer to the afternoon heat, and a good excuse to sit in the shade for a while.