The Muotathal has a character that the grander Swiss valleys lack. It is narrow, steep-sided and slightly damp, with the Muota river running through the bottom and the village of Muotathal strung along the road at about six hundred metres. Mountains rise on both sides, wooded at the base and rocky above, and clouds sometimes sit on the ridges like lids on pots. It is a farming valley where the cheese is made, the cows climb to the high pastures in summer, and people have a reputation for being stubborn and individual.
Two things make it famous. Beneath the hills lies the Hölloch, one of the longest cave systems in the world, with explored passages stretching hundreds of kilometres. And in the village lives a group of so-called weather prophets, the Wetterschmöcker, men who claim to forecast the coming season from signs in nature and who are consulted with half a smile and half respect each year. Whether they are right or not, the tradition is a fine example of Swiss mountain stubbornness.
The valley has a military past too. In 1799 the Russian general Suvorov brought his army through here during the Second Coalition war, crossing the high passes in terrible conditions and fighting French troops in the narrow valley. The campaign ended in retreat, and it is remembered locally more with respect than celebration.
Riding in the Muotathal is slow and rewarding. The road from Schwyz follows the river, with moderate curves, short tunnels and views of waterfalls after rain. It is quiet midweek, though it picks up at weekends. Beyond the village the road continues toward Bisisthal and the Pragel pass, which is closed in winter and needs checking in early or late season.
Schwyz, about ten kilometres away, is the nearest sizeable town for fuel and shops. The village itself has small shops and a few places for coffee or a meal, and the mountain inns often serve simple food made with local cheese and dairy.
Bring a rain jacket. The valley collects weather, and a sunny morning can turn into a soaking afternoon. But even in rain, the green is almost fluorescent and the waterfalls are at their best.