Müncheberg sits on the old trade road between Berlin and the Oder, the route that later became the Reichsstraße 1, running from Aachen all the way to East Prussia. Today it is the B1, still carrying freight and holidaymakers through the middle of the town, but beyond the main road the town is quiet. About seven thousand people live here, and it is a reliable place for fuel, with stations on the main road and supermarkets within a short distance.
The town has an unexpected specialism: agricultural science. A large research institute for agricultural landscapes is based here, with experimental fields on the plateau, and the town's place in the history of plant breeding goes back to the early twentieth century. That is why you see test plots of grain and unusual crops beside the road, tidily labelled. The medieval centre has a section of the old town wall, with towers and a gate, though the church was damaged in the Second World War and rebuilt.
Müncheberg is a good gateway to the Märkische Schweiz, whose lakes, hills and beech woods begin a few kilometres to the north. The roads between the two are some of the most enjoyable in the region, gently curving and well surfaced, with light traffic on weekdays.
A bakery or two in the centre sells good bread, and a handful of restaurants serve plain German dishes: schnitzel, potato dishes, fish in season. Prices are low. It is not the sort of town that tries to charm you, but the pace is relaxed and the people friendly.
Come early, when the market stalls are setting up and the light is low across the square. Take a moment to look at the old walls, buy a roll and a coffee, and fill the tank. The hills are waiting.