The Mullerthal is the green heart of what Luxembourgers call Little Switzerland, a region of deep, narrow valleys cut into pale sandstone, where the forest grows right down into the gorges and the streams tumble over mossy rocks. The name means mill valley, because the Black Ernz stream once powered a string of mills, and a few still stand along the water. The landscape is dominated by sandstone formations, with walls of rock, huge boulders, narrow passages between cliffs and caves where legend says smugglers and outlaws once hid. It is a gentle, mysterious sort of country, damp, green and quiet.
The rock is the story. Millions of years ago this area was under a warm sea, and the sand that settled on the bottom hardened into the sandstone that is now being slowly carved by wind and rain, producing strange shapes and tight gorges that visitors have compared to a miniature Alps. Waterfalls such as the Schiessentümpel, a small cascade beneath a footbridge, are popular, and the walks along the trails are short but rewarding. The Mullerthal Trail, a long-distance walking route of over a hundred kilometres, runs through the region, and many shorter circuits start from small car parks.
The riding is lovely. Narrow roads wind through the forest and along the valleys, with smooth tarmac, easy bends and light traffic, and every village has a bakery or a cafe. The speed limits are low and enforced, with cameras in places, and the roads are used by cyclists and walkers, so keep alert. Weather is mild and changeable, and rain can fall at any time, so a waterproof is useful. Leaf fall in autumn makes the roads slippery, and in winter, frost can linger in the shaded gorges.
Close to the region is Echternach, the oldest town in Luxembourg, which grew around an abbey founded by the missionary Willibrord in the seventh century. Each year at Whitsun, the town holds a dancing procession, in which thousands of people hop through the streets in rows, a tradition recognised by UNESCO. It is a fascinating event and the town is worth a visit at any time, with a handsome market square and a basilica.
For services, small villages such as Consdorf and Waldbillig have cafes and small shops, and there are petrol stations in larger towns such as Diekirch and Echternach. Fuel is cheaper in Luxembourg than in neighbouring countries, so it is worth filling here. Hotels and guesthouses are easy to find, and the region is well set up for walkers and cyclists.