Behind the neat grid of streets, the mountain wall rises steeply, thick with chaparral, and in clear weather after rain it is covered with a dusting of snow at the top, which surprises visitors who associate the city only with beaches.
Sierra Madre is a small foothill town that prides itself on its village feel, with a pleasant main street, old bungalows and a long shadow of the mountain across it in the late afternoon. It is famous for its wisteria vine, planted in 1894 and said to be the largest blossoming plant in the world, which bursts into bloom in March and draws crowds. Arcadia, lower down, is home to Santa Anita Park, an Art Deco horse-racing track from the 1930s with the mountains as a backdrop, and the nearby arboretum has peacocks wandering the lawns.
For motorcyclists, the mountain above is the draw. Mount Wilson Road climbs to the observatory on the summit, where a century ago astronomers used a large telescope to show that the universe contained other galaxies, which changed how we understand the cosmos. The road to the top is narrow, steep and quite twisty, and it is shared with hikers and cyclists. Angeles Crest Highway, a little to the west, is the main attraction, a long, rolling mountain road with gorgeous views.
In clear conditions, the view from the high ridges stretches over the entire city, and on rare winter days all the way to the ocean and Catalina Island. In summer, though, haze usually hangs over the basin. Wildfires have damaged this area repeatedly, and roads can close at short notice, so check the status before you set out.
Fuel is easy in Sierra Madre, Arcadia and Monrovia, and the area has a mix of old Californian diners and excellent Asian food, especially in Arcadia, which has a large Chinese American community and some of the best dumpling houses in the region. Go early on a weekday, and carry water on hot days.