Mount Wuyi is the home of some of the most famous teas in China, and the mountains that grow them are almost as remarkable as the leaves. Straddling the border between Fujian and Jiangxi provinces, the range is made of red sandstone and granite carved into steep cliffs, sharp peaks and deep gorges, with a winding river, the Nine-Bend Stream, flowing between them. The highest point, Huanggang Shan, is about 2,158 metres, the highest peak in south-east China. UNESCO listed the area in 1999 for both its nature and its culture.
Tea grows on the rocky ledges and in crevices, drawing minerals from the stone, and the resulting oolongs are known as rock teas, with a deep, roasted flavour. The most famous is Da Hong Pao, the Big Red Robe, whose original bushes grow on a cliff face and are protected as a national treasure, and the quality of the variety has made it one of the most expensive teas in the world. The region is also the birthplace of black tea, with Lapsang Souchong, the smoky variety, first made here several centuries ago. A visit to a tea farm and a tasting session are an essential part of any trip.
The area is also a cradle of Neo-Confucian thought. The philosopher Zhu Xi, who lived in the twelfth century, taught and wrote near the river, and his ideas shaped education and government across East Asia for centuries. Cliffs along the river hold ancient boat-shaped coffins placed in caves more than three thousand years ago, which show how long people have lived here.
Bamboo rafts drift down the Nine-Bend Stream, and the views are best from the water. The road network is good, with smooth tarmac, mountain bends and the green of bamboo forest. Be aware that China's rules on foreign motorcyclists are strict, so check the licensing situation before you plan to ride yourself. The town of Wuyishan, thirty kilometres away, has fuel, hotels and tea shops.
Spring, when the new leaves are picked, and autumn, when the air is clear, are the best seasons.