Mount Shasta appears long before you reach it, and it never seems to get smaller. This is a stratovolcano rising 4,322 metres from a plain of lava flows and pine forest, its twin summits dazzling with snow and glacier even in August, and it is visible from over a hundred miles away. The town that takes its name sits at the western foot, at about 1,100 metres, and everything in it, from the streets to the cafes, is built around the view. When the mountain is clear it dominates; when cloud wraps it, which happens often, the whole town feels deflated.
The mountain has been sacred to many peoples. The Shasta, Wintu and other Native groups have stories and ceremonies tied to it, and in the twentieth century a stream of newer legends took root, including the belief that a lost civilisation called Lemuria lives inside, so the town has a thriving alternative scene of crystal shops, meditation centres and bookstores. Skiers and climbers come in different seasons, and the Sacramento River begins nearby, with cold, clear springs gushing from the ground at Mount Shasta's southern edge.
For a rider, the Volcanic Legacy Scenic Byway links the great volcanic sites of northern California, from the lava tubes and cinder cones of Lava Beds to Lassen's steaming slopes. The roads around Shasta are broad and smooth, with long climbs, gentle curves and big views of the peak, and traffic is light outside summer. Highway 89 runs past McCloud and its waterfalls toward Lassen, a lovely stretch of forest road. Weather is mountain weather: warm days, cold nights, and thunderstorms in the afternoons. Snow can close the higher roads from November to May.
Mount Shasta is a town of about three thousand people, so there is fuel, food and lodging, though prices reflect the tourist trade. Dunsmuir, down the canyon, is a railroad town with a pleasant main street and a famous water supply. Cafes in the town serve good coffee and big breakfasts, and the local bakeries are worth a stop.
Early morning, with the sun hitting the summit and the snow glowing pink, is the best moment, and the memory will stay long after the ride ends.