Nothofagus is the botanical name of the southern beech, and the name of this reserve gives away its treasure: stands of Antarctic beech growing high on the McPherson Range along the Queensland–New South Wales border. These gnarled, moss-covered trees, some of them centuries old and sprouting from root systems far older still, are living relics of the forests that covered Gondwana before Australia drifted away from Antarctica.
The reserve sits in rugged country west of Mount Lindesay, right up against the state border, where volcanic peaks and long ridges rise above the upper Clarence and Condamine valleys. It is a remote corner, with few roads and fewer people. Access is mainly via the Mount Lindesay Highway, which crosses the range between Rathdowney and Woodenbong, offering a mix of open sweepers, tight bends and spectacular views of the border peaks. Beyond the highway, the roads are often unsealed, steep and narrow, and some forest tracks become impassable after heavy rain. The weather on the range can be cool and misty even in summer, and winter brings cold nights and occasional frost.
This country has a long human history. The Githabul people are the traditional custodians of much of this land, and Mount Lindesay and other peaks hold deep significance for them. European settlers came for timber and grazing in the nineteenth century, and the remains of old logging tracks still crisscross the ranges. Today, much of the forest is protected as part of the Gondwana Rainforests World Heritage site.
Walking among the Antarctic beech feels like stepping into another time. The trunks are thick with moss and ferns, the air is cool and damp, and the light filters through the canopy in soft green tones. You might hear the calls of the Albert's lyrebird, see pademelons in the undergrowth, or spot the bright colours of the regent bowerbird. After rain, the forest drips and steams, and the smell of wet earth is intoxicating.
There are no services in the reserve. The nearest towns are Kooralbyn and Boonah, both over thirty kilometres away, and Woodenbong on the New South Wales side is a small village with limited supplies. Carry plenty of fuel, water and food, and let someone know your plans before venturing onto the forest tracks.