Mount Nebo is a modest ridge, a little over 800 metres high, in the hills above the Dead Sea in Jordan, but it has one of the most famous viewpoints in the Middle East. According to the Bible, this is the place where Moses was shown the Promised Land, before he died without crossing the Jordan. From the terrace, the land falls away dramatically, and on a clear day you can see the Jordan Valley, the northern end of the Dead Sea, the oasis of Jericho, and, in good light, the hills around Jerusalem. The haze often hides the farthest views, so the morning and late afternoon are best.
A Franciscan monastery stands on the summit, with a modern memorial church that houses the Byzantine mosaics of an earlier basilica, remarkable floors of hunting scenes, animals and trees in rich colours from the sixth century. A large twisted bronze serpent sculpture on the terrace recalls the story of Moses, and the whole place has a quiet, contemplative air, though tour buses can make it busy in the middle of the day.
The nearest town is Madaba, about nine kilometres away, with more than eighty thousand people, and it makes a good base. Its great treasure is the sixth-century mosaic map of the Holy Land on the floor of the Greek Orthodox church of Saint George, which shows Jerusalem and many other places in tiny coloured stones. Madaba has plenty of petrol stations, restaurants and shops, so fill up there before you start the long descent toward the Dead Sea.
The road up to Nebo is short, steep and winding, with good tarmac and wide views, and it takes you through olive groves and small farms. Traffic is heavier near the town and around the main tourist season, which runs from spring to autumn. In summer it can be very hot, with strong sun, so carry water and sun protection. In winter the weather is cooler, and occasional rain or fog can reduce the views.
Look out for the local bread, hummus and olive oil in Madaba. A cup of sweet tea with the view over the valley is the best way to end the visit.