Iboundji is a name that carries over a large, quiet area of central Gabon, a country that is more than eighty percent forest. The mountain of that name rises from the rainforest of the Ogooué-Lolo region as an isolated massif, a green dome among low ridges, and for those who live nearby it has long been a landmark and a place of local stories.
The country around is cut by rivers that run toward the great Ogooué, the main waterway of Gabon, and by streams that are brown with tannin. The forest holds elephants, gorillas, chimpanzees, buffalo and countless birds and butterflies, and it grows tall and dense, with a canopy that shuts out most of the light. Mist often clings to the mountain in the early morning. The smell is wet earth, rotting leaves and flowers, and it is a place that rewards patience.
For motorcyclists, roads in this region are mostly laterite tracks that run between villages, with a few stretches of asphalt on the main routes. They can be dusty and bumpy in the dry season, and slippery or impassable after heavy rain. Koulamoutou and Lastoursville, the main towns of the area, are the nearest places with services, and both are some distance away. Bridges can be rough and ferries are sometimes needed, so ask locally about conditions before setting out.
Fuel is the main issue. Between towns there may be no pump at all, so carry a spare and fill at every chance. Food in the villages is simple, often cassava, plantain and fish or bushmeat, and lodging may be a guesthouse or a room with a family. Respect local customs, ask before photographing, and keep your documents handy for checkpoints. The best time for travel is the long dry season from June to August, when the roads are firmest and the forest more open.