On the border between New South Wales and Queensland, the McPherson Range rises steeply from the farmland, its forested slopes and cliffs marking the rim of an ancient volcanic landscape. Mount Clunie Flora Reserve protects a patch of rainforest on these slopes near Woodenbong, part of the Gondwana Rainforests of Australia, a UNESCO site that preserves some of the oldest rainforests on earth. Here, in the cool upland forest, hoop pines and towering eucalypts mix with rainforest trees, and the forest floor is dense with ferns and mosses.
This is remote country. The nearest towns are small, and the reserve has no visitor facilities, but the surrounding area offers excellent walks in the national parks of the Border Ranges and Main Range. The forest is home to rare birds such as the Albert's lyrebird, famous for its mimicry, and the Coxen's fig-parrot, as well as possums, gliders and frogs.
The riding in this area is superb. The Mount Lindesay Highway, which runs from Brisbane south over the range to Woodenbong and on to Tenterfield, is a favourite with riders, with tight curves through the forest as it crosses the border near Mount Lindesay, a dramatic volcanic peak. Other roads through the area, such as those around Rathdowney, Boonah and Killarney, wind through valleys, over passes and past dairy farms and cattle stations, with views of the ranges. Some roads are unsealed, and surfaces can be rough, so ride with care. Watch out for kangaroos and wallabies at dawn and dusk, cattle on the road, and logging trucks.
To the north, the Scenic Rim region of Queensland offers more wonderful riding, with the peaks of Mount Barney, Mount Maroon and the Main Range rising above the farmland, and small towns like Boonah and Rathdowney offering cafés and pubs where riders gather on weekends.
Boonah, about thirty-seven kilometres away, is the nearest town with a full range of services, including fuel; Woodenbong and Rathdowney have more limited facilities. Carry water, as distances between services can be long. The best time to ride is from autumn to spring; summers can be hot, with storms and heavy rain. Stop at a country pub for a meal and a cold drink, and enjoy the friendly atmosphere and the stories of other riders. A ride through the forests of the range, with the smell of eucalyptus in the air and the call of bellbirds in the trees, is one of the great pleasures of riding in Australia.