Bromo is not the tallest peak in the Tengger caldera, but it is the one that smokes, and nobody who sees it forgets it. The crater, at 2,329 metres, sits in the middle of a plain of grey volcanic sand, with a steady plume of white sulphurous steam rising from its throat, and the smell of rotten eggs drifting down the slope. To the south, the neat cone of Batok, covered in green ridges, stands beside it, and behind them both, Semeru, bigger and often more active, sends up puffs of ash. The whole scene looks like an illustration from a children's book about volcanoes.
The most famous viewpoint, Penanjakan, is on the caldera rim at about 2,770 metres, and it draws a long queue of jeeps long before dawn. From there, at first light, you look down on a sea of cloud with the volcanoes rising from it like islands, and the sun comes up in a band of orange behind Semeru. It is cold, crowded and magnificent, and getting there at 3 or 4 in the morning is part of the ritual. Come prepared with a down jacket, gloves and a hat, since temperatures near freezing are not unusual.
Riding here requires care. The roads up to the rim from Pasuruan or Probolinggo are steep and winding, with hairpins and poor visibility in fog, and in the dark, the traffic of jeeps and motorcycles can be thick. The surface is mostly sealed, but patched and rough in places, and sand and gravel drift onto the bends. Many riders leave the bike below and take a jeep, since the final approach and the access to the sand sea are restricted and rules change from time to time, so ask locally. The dry season, May to October, gives the clearest skies, and the wet season brings fog and rain.
At the foot of Bromo, a Hindu temple, Pura Luhur Poten, stands on the sand, where the Tengger community, who have kept the Hindu faith since the fall of Majapahit, make offerings. Steps lead up to the crater rim, which can be climbed in about twenty minutes, and the sulphur fumes are strong, so a mask is useful.
Fuel stations are found in the lowland towns such as Lawang, Pasuruan and Probolinggo, and small stalls in the highland villages sell petrol, but supplies are limited, so fill up before the climb. Small warungs near the rim serve hot coffee and noodles, and a sweet, hot ginger tea is a welcome comfort in the dawn chill.