Mount Batur is a volcano with a short temper. It rises to 1,717 metres from the floor of a vast caldera, beside the crescent of Lake Batur, and it has erupted many times in recorded history, leaving black fields of cooled lava on its flanks. Smoke and steam still seep from vents near the summit, and the ground in places is warm to the touch. The volcano is a place of deep significance to the Balinese, who believe that its spirit controls the water that feeds the island's rice terraces, and offerings are made to the lake goddess at the temple on the shore.
The viewpoints along the caldera rim give the best view of the whole scene: the cone in the foreground, the dark lake beyond, and in the distance, the larger peak of Mount Abang on the opposite rim. On a clear day, you can see Mount Agung, Bali's highest mountain at 3,031 metres, rising to the east. Many visitors climb Batur before dawn, setting out at two or three in the morning with a guide and a torch, to reach the summit for sunrise, with the clouds spread out below. It is a steep, loose, two-hour climb, and the top is cold and windy, so warm clothes are essential. Afterwards, a breakfast of eggs steamed over volcanic vents is a local tradition.
By motorcycle, the road to the viewpoint climbs steadily from the villages, with a good surface and a series of sweeping bends, and the temperature drops as you climb. Traffic is dense and slow, especially in the morning when tour vehicles queue for the viewpoints. Mist, drizzle and low cloud are frequent, and the view can disappear in minutes, so check the weather. The road into the caldera floor, from Penelokan, drops steeply in a series of hairpins to the lake shore, and it is a good ride, though the surface is rough in places.
At the foot of the volcano, the village of Toya Bungkah has hot springs fed by the volcanic heat, where you can bathe in warm, mineral-rich water, a pleasant reward after a climb. Fishermen work the lake from small boats, and the surrounding slopes are planted with vegetables and fruit.
Fuel is available in Kintamani, on the rim, and in villages on the main road. Ubud, about twenty-nine kilometres away, is the largest town. Restaurants along the rim serve buffets with views, and small warungs sell cheaper local food, such as nasi campur and fried noodles.