Mount Tamalpais rises above the northern side of the Golden Gate like a sleeping giant, and the old story goes that its outline looks like a reclining woman, which gave local people the name of the Sleeping Lady. At 2,571 feet it is not a huge mountain, but it springs straight up from the bay and gives a sweeping view over the whole region, from the Farallon Islands to the Sierra on a clear day. For riders, it is one of the best short climbs in the Bay Area.
The nearest towns, Mill Valley, Kentfield and Larkspur, give a hint of the setting. They are leafy, wealthy communities tucked into the creek valleys on the mountain's skirts, with redwoods in the gardens and cafes where cyclists meet. Mill Valley has a good small main street, and the old Mountain Home Inn serves as a landmark on the way up. The mountain was once reached by a famous crooked railway, with a hundred-odd curves, which ran until the 1930s and helped build the area's outdoor culture.
The riding itself is tight and constantly changing. Panoramic Highway climbs out of Mill Valley in a series of narrow bends, with redwood shade and the occasional glimpse of the bay below, then runs along the ridge toward Stinson Beach and the ocean. The East Peak road is a short, steep spur to the top, where a fire lookout and a few trails offer a short stretch of walking. The surface is patchy, the road is narrow and cyclists are everywhere, so a relaxed pace is the right one. Fog can sit on the ridge even when the lower areas are clear, and it often brings damp, cool air.
Fuel and food are best found in Mill Valley and Larkspur before the climb, because there is nothing on the mountain beyond a few small cafes and trailhead parking areas. Weekends are busy and the best time for a quiet climb is a weekday morning.
If you arrive late, the sunset is the real reward. The light turns the fog gold and pink, and the city lights begin to flicker across the water, a view that makes the narrow road worthwhile.