In the late seventh century, before Nara became the capital, the Japanese court was based in the Asuka region, south of the Nara basin, and the Emperor Tenmu ordered the construction of a great temple, Yakushi-ji, dedicated to the Buddha of healing, to pray for the recovery of his sick empress. The temple was built in the new capital of Fujiwara-kyō, and when the court moved to Nara in 710, a new Yakushi-ji was built there. The original temple, known as Motoyakushiji, the original Yakushi-ji, was gradually abandoned.
Today, the Motoyakushiji site is a quiet place in the fields of Kashihara, with the foundation stones of the main hall and the two pagodas still in place, surrounded by rice paddies. It is part of the area associated with the ancient capital and has been proposed for World Heritage status as part of the Asuka-Fujiwara sites. In late summer, the fields around the site are planted with water hyacinths, which bloom in a sea of pale purple, and the site becomes a popular spot for photographers.
The Asuka region is full of such places: ancient tombs, the kofun, stone monuments of mysterious purpose, and the remains of palaces and temples. Asuka village has kept its rural character, with rice fields and small roads, and it is a pleasant place to explore. The Ishibutai Kofun, a huge stone burial chamber, is the most famous of the tombs, and the Takamatsuzuka and Kitora tombs have famous wall paintings.
The riding in this area is gentle, through rice fields, villages and low hills. The roads are narrow and often busy with local traffic, and the towns of Kashihara and Sakurai are suburban. For more interesting riding, head south into the mountains of Yoshino and the Kii peninsula, or east toward the hills of Uda. Japan drives on the left, and roads in rural areas are narrow with many blind corners.
Kashihara, about two kilometres away, has fuel and all services. Local food includes miwa sōmen, thin wheat noodles from nearby Sakurai, and kakinoha-zushi. Late summer, for the water hyacinths, and autumn are the best times to visit.