Murten, or Morat as the French speakers call it, is a small walled town on the shore of a lake of the same name, on the language frontier of Switzerland. Its ramparts are among the best preserved in the country, and its main street is lined with arcades and painted fountains. In 1476, it was the site of a decisive battle, when the Swiss Confederates defeated the army of Charles the Bold, Duke of Burgundy, and ended his attempt to conquer the region. A stone memorial to the battle, and the legend that a runner carried the news of victory to Fribourg, gave Switzerland a long-lasting patriotic story.
Across the water rises Mont Vully, a low, gently rounded ridge covered in vineyards, and Motier, on the lake, lies at its foot. The first part of the label refers to prehistoric pile dwellings in the shallows, part of the UNESCO listing for such sites around the Alps, though the posts are underwater and the real treasure is in the museums. The second part, Kehrsiten, is far away on Lake Lucerne, which shows how a route can jump across the whole country. The Vully wines, a white Chasselas and a fruity Pinot noir, are made on the slopes, and a local speciality is the gateau du Vully, a sweet tart topped with cream and sugar.
The riding here is mellow. The Three Lakes region, with Neuchatel, Biel and Murten, has flat roads along the shores, vegetable fields in the Seeland, and gentle bends through vineyards on the slopes. The surface is generally excellent, and traffic is moderate, though it grows heavy in summer. The road over the Vully hill offers fine views of the lake and, on a clear day, a line of Alpine peaks across the water. Autumn, with the grape harvest and golden light, is particularly lovely.
Murten has fuel nearby, as well as bakeries and restaurants, and the old town is easy to explore on foot. It is worth walking along the town wall for the view over the roofs and the lake. If the weather is hot, a swim in the lake is a pleasure, and boats run on the water in season. A Swiss vignette is required for motorway use. The best times are May and September, when the weather is mild and the lakeside is calm.