Northern Lesotho is a country of high, treeless ridges and deep valleys, and the Moteng Pass is a good place to meet it. The road climbs from the lowlands near the South African border into the Maloti mountains, where villages of stone and thatch cling to the slopes and every hillside seems to be terraced with strips of maize and wheat. Phuthaditjhaba, a large town on the South African side about thirty kilometres away, and Butha-Buthe, the nearest Lesotho town of any size, are the points that anchor the region on a map.
Basotho life goes on beside the road. Herdboys in blankets watch flocks of sheep, goats and cattle, women carry water on their heads, and horsemen trot along on sturdy ponies that handle the steep ground with ease. The blanket, worn with a safety pin at the shoulder, is both clothing and a mark of identity, and the patterns are chosen with care. Most people are happy to return a wave, and the pace of life encourages riders to slow down and take it in.
The riding is exciting and demanding. Sections of the road are well surfaced, with sweeping views, but others are broken by potholes, loose edges and washouts, and livestock and pedestrians use the carriageway all the time. Ride well within your limits, avoid the road after dark, and do not underestimate the weather. At this altitude, cloud can drop into the valleys in minutes, and snow can fall in any month of the winter, even into spring, so waterproofs and a warm layer are essential, and a winter ride calls for heated gear.
Few places along the pass have reliable services. Fuel is available in the bigger towns, so fill up in Butha-Buthe or Phuthaditjhaba before you go, and carry water and food. Small shops in the villages sell basic supplies, bread, soft drinks and tinned food, and you may be offered tea in a home if you stop to ask for directions. Border formalities apply when entering Lesotho from South Africa, so bring your passport and vehicle papers. The best months are spring and autumn, when the air is clear and the hills are golden.