Mosteiros sits at the very western tip of São Miguel, where the road runs out of island and the Atlantic takes over. It is a small village of low houses, a harbour, a church and an old basalt shoreline, and the reason people come is the group of sea stacks standing just off the coast. They are black, jagged and covered with the green of lichen and salt-hardy plants, and they look like the ruins of something. The name means monasteries, and one story says that the stacks resemble the shapes of monks' cowls, though the origin of the name is not entirely clear.
The shoreline is volcanic through and through. Dark sand and polished stones form a small beach, and a natural pool among the lava rocks is a lovely place to swim on a calm day. When the sea is rough, you can feel the swell thumping into the rock before you see it, and spray flies over the sea wall. It is wise to read the water before you wade in, and to stay away from the edge in heavy surf, as the Atlantic here can be unforgiving.
The ride in is an easy descent from Sete Cidades through green fields and small stone-walled farms. The road is mostly smooth with steady bends, though cattle, tractors and wet leaves are all potential hazards, and the sea fog sometimes drifts in over the lanes. The light in late afternoon turns the cliffs golden, and the sunsets facing west are a good reason to linger. The village smells of salt, fish and baking, and local cafés serve simple fish dishes, cheese, and strong coffee.
Do not expect more than a few shops and snack bars. For fuel, you need to go to larger places, and the nearest sizeable town is Arrifes, though Ponta Delgada has the widest range, roughly half an hour east. A tank filled before you come west is a good idea. Weather can change fast, and wind off the sea is cold even in July, so a spare layer is useful.
There is also a quiet sadness in the end of the road: after the dramatic crater you have just left, this is where the island simply meets the horizon, and there is nothing between you and America.