Close to the coast road on Djerba's north side, a few kilometres from Houmt El Souk, the mosque of Sidi Smain is one of many small religious buildings on the island, and like most of them it is better enjoyed as part of the landscape than as an isolated monument. Djerba is a flat island of olive groves, palm gardens and low white houses, and the mosques here come in two types: the large village ones with thick buttresses, and the small neighbourhood ones that look a bit like lime-washed cubes with a dome on top.
Houmt El Souk is the place to base yourself. The island's capital has a lively market, narrow lanes of whitewashed houses and a harbour where fishing boats unload octopus, which Djerba is known for. A fortress, Borj el Kebir, stands at the water's edge, dating from the fifteenth century and rebuilt by the Spanish, and in the sixteenth century a tower of skulls from a lost naval battle stood nearby. The town has more than sixty thousand people, so fuel, repair shops and a good lunch are within five minutes of the mosque.
Riding here is flat and easy. You leave town on small lanes between stone walls, passing gardens with fig trees, palm groves and prickly pear, and the road meets the sea on the north coast, with long, empty beaches and views toward the mainland. The risks are mostly sand on the tarmac, loose dogs in villages and unmarked speed bumps. Stay out of the soft edges where sand collects, and be aware that on windy days the gusts can push you off line.
Time your visit for spring, with blossom in the gardens, or autumn, with warm sea and softer light. In winter it can be surprisingly chilly and wet, and in July and August it is too hot to enjoy a long ride. For lunch, ask for a plate of grilled fish and a bowl of harissa, and finish with strong coffee at a cafe on the main square.