Sidi is the title given to a local holy man, and many Djerban mosques and small domed tombs carry a saint's name, with a whitewashed cube or dome standing beside a tree at the edge of a field. Sidi Salem sits in the north-west of the island, between Houmt Souk and the sea, in an area of olive groves and market gardens where the land is so flat that you can see every dome for miles. On the coast not far away, the Borj Ghazi Mustapha, a square sixteenth-century fort that the Spanish built and the Ottomans took, stands over the shallow water at the old harbour entrance.
The saints' tombs are part of the island's daily life. Women leave small offerings, candles are lit on Thursdays, and families stop to say a prayer when they pass. Local festivals mark the birthdays of saints, with food, music and processions, and the holiness of the places is felt by Muslims and, in some cases, by Jews, who share some traditions with their neighbours in a way that is typical of Tunisia's past. The Jewish community of Djerba is among the oldest in the Mediterranean, with villages that have been inhabited for many centuries.
The riding from Houmt Souk is flat and easy, with low speed limits and a good surface, and the road that follows the northern coast gives views over mudflats and shallow water, where herons and flamingos feed in winter. In summer, the heat shimmers over the road, and there is little shade. Take care at the island's roundabouts, where local drivers use their own rules, and watch for pedestrians and animals. Dust and sand can blow across the road in a strong wind, so a visor and goggles help.
Houmt Souk is only about four kilometres away, with fuel, banks, restaurants and workshops, so there is no need to plan supplies. The fish in the harbour restaurants is usually grilled whole, with a plate of salad and bread, and mint tea afterward. The old part of the town is good for a stroll in the early evening when the shops reopen after the midday break, and the lanes are cool in the shade.