Sidi Jmour is a mosque near the north coast of Djerba, in an area of dunes, olive groves and sandy tracks, and it is named, as many Tunisian shrines are, for a holy man. The mosque has the family look of the island's buildings: thick white walls, strong buttresses and a small dome, and it stands in open country, so you see it from a distance, bright against the dark green of the olives. Most mosques on Djerba have a sacred feeling of austere simplicity, and the whitewashed walls reflect the sun in a way that is almost dazzling at midday.
The area is known as a place of quiet. Zone Temlel, the area the route pairs with it, is part of the quieter, less built-up side of the island, and some stretches of the coast are lined with beaches of fine pale sand. The Mediterranean here is warm and shallow, with water that turns turquoise on calm days. Flamingos sometimes feed in the island's lagoons, and the whole place has a sleepy, sun-baked air.
The riding is gentle. Roads here are narrow and may have sand drifting across the tarmac, so take care in bends. Farmers use the roads with carts, tractors and animals, and the right of way is often claimed by the larger vehicle. Distances are short, and it is hard to get lost, since the island is only about twenty-five kilometres across. The usual hazards are heat, dust and the occasional dog.
Erriadh and Houmt Souk are the nearest towns, about ten and eleven kilometres away. Houmt Souk has fuel, food and a pleasant harbour where fishermen unload the catch each afternoon. Djerba is famous for its octopus, which is cooked in stews and salads, and for couscous with fish. Dates and olives are everywhere, and a glass of mint tea with pine nuts is the usual conclusion to a meal.
Visit in the morning or late afternoon, when the light is soft and the heat gentler. Be respectful at religious buildings. A scarf over the shoulders is sensible near mosques.