Mthanya is another of Djerba's fortress mosques, tucked among olive groves and low white houses south of Erriadh, and like its neighbours it is built for strength rather than show. The island has dozens of these Ibadi mosques, and UNESCO recognised them in 2023 as part of the cultural landscape of Djerba, along with the farm hamlets, the markets and the water systems that make this island such a distinct human habitat.
Erriadh, the nearest big village, is a good place to see how the island's communities have lived side by side. Its old name was Hara Sghira, the Small Quarter, and it has been home to a Jewish community for many centuries. Close by stands the Ghriba synagogue, one of the oldest in Africa, which draws pilgrims from across the world each spring, and its blue-tiled interior glows in the light that filters through the windows. The village has also become known for street murals, painted by artists from around the world on the whitewashed walls, which give a modern flavour to the old streets.
Djerba itself has an old tradition of legend. In Homer, the Lotus-eaters lived on an island where visitors who ate the lotus forgot their homes, and the Greeks identified that island with Djerba, which gave the place a reputation for hospitality and for forgetting time. You can believe it on a warm afternoon with a glass of tea in the shade.
The riding is easy and flat, along quiet country roads shaded by palms and bordered by prickly pear. Surfaces are good, though patched, and sand drifts across the road in places. Local drivers are quick and inclined to overtake in the wrong places, so keep to the right and stay alert at junctions. The island is small, and getting lost is not much of a risk, though signs are not always clear.
Fuel is easy in Erriadh and in Houmt Souk, and the hotels and guesthouses are plentiful. Try fresh dates, olives and olive oil from local farms, and the island's spicy harissa.
Spring brings blooms in the gardens and mild days, making it a fine time to visit.