Djerba is a flat, low island off the south coast of Tunisia, joined to the mainland by a Roman causeway and a ferry, and its landscape of olive groves, palms and whitewashed farmhouses is dotted with small mosques that look more like fortresses than places of prayer. The Moghzel mosque is one of them. Djerba has a long Ibadi tradition, a branch of Islam that is neither Sunni nor Shia, and many of the island's villages are Berber speaking, with architecture suited to hard times: thick walls, buttresses, small domes, and a plain whitewashed look that fits the sun and the sea.
The island's history is one of defence and trade. Pirates, Spanish raiders and Ottoman fleets all appeared at one time or another, and the Ibadi communities built strong mosques that also served as places of refuge, teaching and meetings. UNESCO listed Djerba in 2023 as a testimony to a settlement pattern in an island territory, recognising the way the houses, wells, mosques and fields fit together in a landscape of scattered farmsteads called menzels. According to old legend, Djerba is the island of the lotus eaters described by Homer, where Ulysses' crew forgot their homes.
On a bike, Djerba is an easy, relaxed place. The roads are flat, the surface is generally good and the distances are small, so you can see most of the island in a day. The wind is the main feature, blowing steadily from the sea, and in the middle of summer the heat is fierce, so the best seasons are spring and autumn, when the days are warm and the evenings gentle. Take care on the sandy verges, and watch for scooters, donkeys and children. Tourist traffic is heavy around the resort strip on the north-east coast, but this part of the island is quieter.
Midoun, about seven kilometres off, serves as the main town on this side, with a lively market and fuel stations, and Houmt Souk, the capital, is farther west with its fort, souks and fish restaurants. Erriadh is home to the famous El Ghriba synagogue, one of the oldest in Africa, and the village of Guellala is known for its pottery. Try a brik, a crisp pastry filled with egg and tuna, or grilled fish with harissa, and drink the strong mint tea.