In the central and southern parts of the island, among olive groves and sandy lanes, stand small whitewashed mosques of the Ibadi tradition, with thick walls, simple domes and sometimes a short minaret and an outer stair. Some were built as places of refuge, with storerooms and wells inside, to serve scattered communities in times of raids, and others as neighbourhood mosques for a cluster of farms. Together they are among the features for which the island of Djerba was added to the UNESCO list in 2023.
Ibadism is a very early branch of Islam, neither Sunni nor Shia, with roots in the first century of the faith. Its followers have lived in Djerba for more than a thousand years, along with communities in Oman and parts of the Algerian Sahara, and their mosques are modest, austere buildings with little decoration, an expression of the movement's emphasis on simplicity. Visitors should remember these are working places of worship, and non-Muslims are usually welcome only to look from the outside, or in specific circumstances.
The countryside around is Djerba at its most traditional, a flat, sunny landscape of olive trees, date palms and low whitewashed walls, with windmills and wells here and there. The nearest town is Midoun, about twelve kilometres away, which has fuel, shops and restaurants. Roads in the interior are narrow and sometimes sandy, and you share them with scooters, farm carts and wandering sheep.
Part of the pleasure of Djerba is its potters, particularly in the southern village of Guellala, where families have been making clay jars and pots in the same way for generations. You can watch the potters at work, and buy pieces to take home, though a bike has limited luggage space.
The Mediterranean climate is mild, with hot summers and short wet winters. Spring is the best time, with wildflowers, and October is warm and quiet. The wind can blow strongly, especially in winter, so a windproof layer helps. If you stop at a roadside stall, try a handful of fresh dates or a glass of palm sap, which is sold in the morning.