The mosques of Djerba are like nothing else in the Muslim world. They are low, white and plain, with thick buttressed walls, small windows and flat or domed roofs, and from a distance they look like fortresses, which is more or less what they were. Djerba is an island off the south of Tunisia, flat and hot, and over the centuries it was raided by pirates and attacked by the Spanish, so its mosques were built to protect worshippers and store supplies. Most belong to the Ibadi school of Islam, a small branch distinct from the Sunni and Shia, which has survived on Djerba and in a few other places in North Africa for over a thousand years.
Berdaoui is typical of the island's mosques, set among palms and olive trees on the flat farmland between Houmt Souk and the villages of the interior. Its whitewashed walls are thick and sloped, and a small minaret rises from one corner. Inside, there is a prayer hall with plain columns and a niche facing Mecca, with space for studying, and often a well or cistern for water. The whitewash is renewed regularly, and the buttresses give the mosque a gently sculpted look, like a carved piece of soap.
As a visitor, treat these as active places of worship. Non-Muslims are generally not admitted, and it is best to observe from outside, quietly and without intruding. A respectful photograph from the road is usually fine, but do not walk into the courtyard during prayer.
The ride across the island is flat and easy, along straight roads lined with olive trees, date palms and low white houses with domed roofs. Traffic is moderate, with scooters, vans and horse carts, and the occasional donkey. Roads can be sandy at the edges. Sirocco winds from the south bring heat and dust, while summer temperatures are very high. The best seasons are spring and autumn.
Houmt Souk, about twelve kilometres away, has fuel stations, restaurants and a lively market with fine pottery, and the fort, Borj el Kebir, stands at the harbour. Erriadh, closer, is home to El Ghriba, one of the oldest synagogues in North Africa, and a village where artists have painted street murals. Eat brik, a thin pastry filled with egg and tuna, and fresh grilled fish.