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Moskog

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Moskog is a small settlement in Sunnfjord, and it sits on the edge of Førde, the main town of the area, where the Gaularfjellet road comes to its quiet end. The countryside here is gentle compared with the high mountains behind: green farmland, birch woods and small lakes, with the Jølstravatnet lake and the Førdefjord nearby. Førde, with about eight and a half thousand people, is a modern regional centre, with fuel, shops, restaurants and a hospital, and it is only about seven kilometres away. Moskog itself is a scatter of farms and houses.

The Gaularfjellet road, which you have just ridden, is a National Tourist Route, and one of the most dramatic in western Norway. It climbs from the Sognefjord to a plateau at about 700 metres, then drops through a series of tight hairpins to the valley of the Gaula river, with a view of the Haukedalen valley and a famous viewing platform at Utsikten, which juts out above the bends. The road is narrow in places, with sharp bends and steep gradients, and the surface is generally good but can be damp. Rain is frequent, as the mountains catch the weather from the North Sea.

Sunnfjord has a long tradition of farming and fishing, and the district is known for its berries, apples and cheese. The Gaula river is a good salmon river, and anglers come from across Europe. The coast nearby has islands and skerries, and the sea is rich in fish. Among the local attractions is the Sunnfjord Museum, an open-air collection of old farm buildings near Førde, which gives a picture of rural life in past centuries.

Moskog lacks services, so use Førde for fuel, food and supplies. The town has bakeries and cafes, and a lively music festival in July, which attracts folk and world music artists. The weather is often wet, so waterproofs are wise, but when the sun appears, the green hills are dazzling. The late afternoon is a good time to arrive, when the light softens and the day's climb is behind you.

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