Morro do Pai Inácio is a flat-topped hill that rises out of the scrub of the Chapada Diamantina in the interior of Bahia, standing a little above a thousand metres. It is the sort of place where the earth seems to have been cut and left. The sandstone plateaus of this region, called chapadas, are ancient, eroded into cliffs, canyons and tabletop hills, and the Morro is one of the most photographed. From the top, a short, steep walk of perhaps fifteen minutes from the road, you look out over the valley of the Rio Utinga and the plateaus beyond, in a view that stretches to the horizon.
The legend is dramatic. Pai Inácio was an enslaved man who, so the story goes, escaped his master and was cornered on the hill. Rather than be taken, he jumped off with an umbrella, and a gust of wind carried him down safely, while the pursuers thought he had died. Whether it is true or not, the hill carries his name, and the legend is told to every visitor. The region was a centre of diamond mining in the nineteenth century, hence its name, and the old mining towns, like Lençóis, have colonial buildings that survive from those days.
The road here, the BR-242, runs through a landscape of dry scrub and rocky outcrops, with long straight sections and gentle bends. The surface is generally good, though potholes and road repairs appear, and trucks and buses share the route. It is hot in the day, and the red earth, the sandstone and the cactus give the place a strong, dry character. Dusk is the best time to be on top of the Morro, when the sun lights the plateau in gold and pink, though you should plan the descent in the fading light and carry a torch.
Fuel is the main practical concern. The nearest stations are at Iraquara, about twenty-eight kilometres away, and Seabra, a little further, so fill up before reaching the hill. Iraquara is the gateway to some of the region's caves, including the Gruta da Lapa Doce and the Poço Azul, where underground pools of clear blue water can be seen. Visitors often start tours at Lençóis, a short ride down the road. The dry season, from about May to September, is the most comfortable. Take water and sun protection, because there is little shade on the hilltop.