Morretes is a small, quiet colonial town on the Nhundiaquara river, in the shadow of the Serra do Mar, and the way you get there is the best part of the visit. The Estrada da Graciosa, built in the nineteenth century to link the coast with the plateau around Curitiba, climbs and falls through the Atlantic forest in a series of cobbled and paved stretches, with hairpins, narrow bridges and views that open suddenly over the green slopes. Moss, ferns and bromeliads cover the trees, and the air is damp and rich with the smell of leaf litter.
The road is not for speed. Long sections are paved with old stones, which become treacherous when wet, and mist and rain are common in this part of Paraná, so ride slowly and keep your distance from other vehicles. Occasionally the road closes after storms or landslides, and in some areas there are restrictions on traffic and speed to protect the park, so check before you set out. When it is dry and clear, it is wonderfully peaceful, with birdsong and the sound of streams.
Morretes itself is famous for barreado, a dish of beef cooked for around twelve hours in a sealed clay pot with spices until it falls apart, then served with manioc flour, rice and banana. The tradition comes from the area's colonial past, and restaurants along the riverside serve it for lunch. There is also the cachaça and banana sweet made in the region. Walk across the old bridge, look at the colourful houses along the water, and sit by the river with a coffee.
The tourist train from Curitiba to Morretes follows a spectacular line down the same mountain, passing bridges and tunnels, and can be fun to watch as it passes. Antonina, thirteen kilometres away with about sixteen thousand people, sits on the bay and is also worth a stop for its old buildings, and it is the better place to find fuel, though Morretes itself has services. Piraquara and Quatro Barras are on the plateau side, where bigger towns offer repairs and supplies. Give yourself an easy afternoon and avoid the road at night.