Moroni is the capital of the Comoros, a small, crowded and lively town on the west coast of Grande Comore, with a harbor full of wooden boats and a skyline of mosques. The name comes from the Comorian words meaning at the heart of the fire, a reference to the volcano that looms behind it. The old town is a maze of narrow streets and coral stone houses, and at its center the Old Friday Mosque, with its white minaret and walls that rise directly from the sea, is a landmark that dates from the fifteenth century and has been rebuilt over the years.
The Comoros were home to Arab and Persian traders and later to a mix of Swahili, Malagasy and African settlers, and the islands were a stop on trading routes across the Indian Ocean for centuries. France took control in the late nineteenth century, and the islands became independent in 1975, though the years since have been marked by coups and instability. Today the town has a rough charm, with a harbor where dhows unload cargo, a busy market called Volo Volo and a scattering of small restaurants.
For riders, Moroni is the starting point for the island's ring road. In the city, traffic is chaotic and noisy, with shared taxis stopping without warning and motorbikes weaving between them. Beyond it, the road runs north and south along the coast, with the volcano on one side and the ocean on the other. The surface is rough but passable, and the route offers wide views over black lava fields, banana groves and small fishing villages. Evenings are the best time, when the heat fades and the light turns the sea gold.
With about forty thousand people, Moroni has the island's main fuel stations, a few banks and a modest selection of shops, so stock up here before heading out. Power cuts are frequent and phone networks can be unreliable. The cooler dry season from May to October is the best time to visit, and the wet season brings storms.
Try a plate of grilled fish with coconut rice at one of the small places near the harbor, and wander the market in the morning when the produce is fresh. Dress modestly and ask before taking photographs of people.