A mountain that has been eaten by a thousand tourist buses still manages to be impressive. The rock is conglomerate, a gravelly stone of ancient river deposits, which erodes into towers and needles, and which makes the mountain a favourite of rock climbers. The name means serrated mountain, and from the plain the outline looks like the teeth of a saw.
On the face of the cliff, a Benedictine monastery stands where monks first settled in the eleventh century. Pilgrims come to see La Moreneta, the dark-skinned wooden statue of the Virgin, and to hear the boys' choir, the Escolania, one of the oldest choirs in Europe. During periods of repression under Franco, the monastery quietly kept Catalan language and culture alive, which is why Catalans regard it with deep affection. Hermits' cells dot the hills, and walking paths lead to chapels and viewpoints.
The roads around the mountain are a pleasure to ride. From Monistrol, the climb to the monastery runs in long bends with wonderful views, and from Collbató a smaller road winds through pine forest on the south side. Surfaces are generally good, but the narrow stretches can have gravel, and the cliff edges have little protection. On weekends and in the holiday season, traffic is heavy, with tour buses and cars queuing on the access road. Fog and cloud sometimes cover the top, and the temperature drops, so layers are useful. Autumn and spring are best, when the air is clear and the light lights up the pinnacles.
For services, Collbató has fuel and a few bars, but Esparreguera, about seven kilometres away, has more shops and fuel stations. At the top, a cafeteria and a restaurant serve simple Catalan food, and a shop sells mató cheese with honey, a traditional dessert. Parking for motorbikes is separate from cars, which makes life easier. If you want a short walk, the path to the Sant Joan chapel gives a fine view. Allow extra time on Sundays.