Pine trees, wooden chalets and a fondue on the menu: this corner of Minas Gerais does a convincing impression of the Alps. Monte Verde is a small village at about 1,500 metres in the Serra da Mantiqueira, near the border between Minas Gerais and São Paulo, and it has built a whole identity on being cold. Winter nights drop close to freezing, the buildings are styled with steep roofs and timber, and visitors flock from São Paulo for open fires, chocolate and a feeling of being somewhere else.
The ride from Campos do Jordão, which at around 1,600 metres is among the highest cities in Brazil, passes through the Mantiqueira's upland landscape of pine and eucalyptus forest, farmland and rocky ridges. The roads are winding, with climbs, drops and hairpins, and the surface quality can be uneven, with potholes after rain, so take care. Fog often settles in the valleys in the morning, and in summer afternoon thunderstorms are common, so set off early and keep a rain jacket handy. The last approach to the village is steep and narrow.
Above the village, the Pedra Redonda and the Chapéu do Bispo give views over ranges of blue ridges, and forest trails lead to waterfalls and streams. Birdwatchers look for the Atlantic forest species, such as toucans and tanagers, and the air has the resinous smell of pine. The village streets are small, lined with shops selling jams, cheese, wool and chocolate, and restaurants that serve fondue, trout and hearty stews.
Monte Verde has a few fuel options, but supplies are limited and weekends get crowded, so the safer bet is to fill the tank in Camanducaia, sixteen kilometres away with nearly eighteen thousand people, and Joanópolis, a bit further. Book accommodation in advance for winter weekends and holidays, when the village fills up and prices rise. Bring warm clothing at any time of year, as evenings are chilly, and take extra care in the streets after dark, when they are steep, wet and poorly lit.