Faded grandeur and Atlantic light define Monte Estoril. The district rises from the coast between Estoril and Cascais, west of Lisbon, with villas, gardens and old hotels on the slopes above the sea, and a long promenade along the beach below. This was once one of Europe's most fashionable resorts, and some of that elegance survives in the palm-lined avenues and the houses with their tiled facades.
Estoril's golden age came in the early twentieth century, when the casino and grand hotels were built, and during the Second World War, when neutral Portugal became a refuge for exiled royals, refugees and spies of every nationality. Ian Fleming, who worked in naval intelligence, spent time here, and the casino is often said to have inspired Casino Royale. After the war, deposed kings and their families settled along this coast, giving it the nickname the Coast of Kings.
For motorcyclists, Estoril has another association: the Autódromo do Estoril, the racing circuit in the hills behind the town, which hosted the Portuguese Formula One Grand Prix for many years and later the MotoGP championship. Its corners are a reminder that this coast has a long love affair with speed.
The coast road, the Marginal, runs along the sea from Lisbon to Cascais, a pleasant if busy route with views of the ocean and the mouth of the Tagus. Beyond Cascais, the road continues to the wild cliffs of Boca do Inferno and Cabo da Roca, the westernmost point of mainland Europe, with strong winds and spectacular views. The roads through the Serra de Sintra, a range of forested hills dotted with palaces, are narrow and twisty, with damp, mossy surfaces in places.
The rides from here head far north, to the Serra da Estrela, the highest mountains of mainland Portugal, with long climbs and wide views, and to the Douro valley, where vineyards cling to steep terraces above the river. Both are long journeys, so start early. Fuel, food and every service are easy to find around Estoril and Cascais, and the seafront cafés make a good stop for a coffee and a pastel de nata. Traffic on the Marginal and around Lisbon can be heavy, especially on summer weekends, so plan your departure and return accordingly.