Montañita is the surf village of Ecuador's Pacific coast, a small place of sand streets, bamboo bars and beach shacks where the main sounds are waves and music. It lies on the Ruta del Spondylus, the coastal highway that runs from the south of Ecuador's coast to its northern shores, named for the spiny oyster shell that pre-Columbian peoples valued above gold. Traders carried Spondylus shells from here all the way to the Andes and Mexico, where they were used in rituals and offerings, and the shell has given the road its name.
The road along the coast is a mix of beach, cliff and fishing village. Surfaces vary between smooth asphalt and patched sections, and bends are gentle, with the sea appearing and vanishing between the trees. Traffic is light outside holiday weekends, but trucks and buses are a hazard, and motorbikes and tuk-tuks cut in and out through the villages. The climate is warm and humid, and the dry season, from roughly June to November, brings cool morning mist known as the garúa, while the wet months are hotter and greener.
Montañita itself has a reputation as a party town, with bars and hostels crowded with travellers, and it can be noisy at weekends. The waves, which break well along the point and the beach, attract surfers from around the world, and there are lessons and boards for hire. Early mornings are calm and surprisingly peaceful, with fishermen hauling in nets and pelicans gliding over the water. Food is fresh seafood, with ceviche, grilled fish and shrimp, and fresh coconut water sold from stalls.
Fuel stations are along the main coastal highway, though the stretch between villages can be long, so top up when you see one. Take cash, as card payments are not always possible, and watch for sudden changes in weather, especially from garúa to bright sun. For a quieter night, there are small beach villages to the north, where the road is mostly empty and the sunsets are spectacular. Wear sun protection, even on cloudy days, because the equatorial sun is strong.