Monschau is a town squeezed into a narrow valley of the Rur river in the northern Eifel, so tightly that its half-timbered houses seem to lean over the water and over each other. It sits right on the German border, near Belgium's High Fens, and its steep roofs and dark slate walls give it a look straight from a fairy tale. A ruined castle stands on the hill above, and the main sights are small and close together, which makes the town easy to explore on foot.
The town grew rich in the eighteenth century from cloth, and the wealthy merchants built grand houses, the finest of which is the Red House, a clothier's mansion with a spectacular staircase. The old mustard mill, which still produces mustard in the traditional way, is another stop, and you can buy jars in several flavours. In the autumn, the smell of spices from the Printen bakers, who make a hard, spiced gingerbread, drifts along the lanes. Monschau also holds a lovely Christmas market, which draws large crowds, and a classical music festival in summer.
The roads in and out are the reason bikers come. From the Belgian side, the road crosses the High Fens, a wild plateau of heath and peat, and descends into the Rur valley in a series of bends. The B258 and B399 wind through forest and meadow, with good surfaces and attractive scenery, and the surrounding Eifel is a favourite for motorcycle tours. The roads are popular at weekends, and speed cameras and police checks are common, so keep to the limits and be considerate in the villages. Monschau's own streets are narrow and cobbled, and the centre is largely pedestrian, so park at the edge and walk in.
Nature is close at hand. The Rur valley is steep and wooded, and the High Fens nature reserve lies just across the border. The Eifel is old volcanic country, with crater lakes, called maars, to the south. Spring brings fresh green and abundant wildflowers, and autumn colour is excellent.
Food and drink is easy to find. There are cafes, bakeries and restaurants in the old town, and a slow lunch with a view of the river is a good idea. Fuel is available at Simmerath and Roetgen, a short distance away, but the village has little, so fill up beforehand. Weekends in summer and the Christmas season are busy, so arrive early.