Moni is a small village at the foot of Kelimutu, a cluster of homestays, guesthouses and tiny restaurants strung along the road, in a cool green landscape of rice terraces, coffee bushes and banana trees. At about a thousand metres, it is noticeably cooler than the coast, and the evenings bring a damp chill that sends everyone into their rooms with a pot of hot tea. Most travellers come to sleep before the sunrise climb to the lakes, but the village has a quiet charm of its own.
The surrounding countryside is worth a little time. The people of the area weave ikat cloth, with patterns of dyed thread that vary from village to village, and you can see the weavers at work, or buy a piece from a roadside stall. A short ride away is a waterfall, and nearby there are hot springs where you can warm up after a cold morning on the volcano. The fields around the village are green, and the smell of woodsmoke and coffee hangs in the air.
The road to Moni, part of the Trans-Flores route, is a tough but rewarding ride. From Ende, it climbs into the hills in a long series of bends through forest, rice fields and villages, and the surface varies from good tarmac to broken patches, with landslides, potholes and animals on the road. Rain can make it slippery, and the corners often come with little warning, so a measured pace is wise. The scenery is excellent, with views over the green ridges to the sea.
Small roadside stands sell petrol in bottles, though the price is high and the quality uncertain. Homestays often include dinner and breakfast, with rice, vegetables, eggs and strong local coffee, and the hosts can arrange early transport to the lakes. Bring a warm layer, a torch and a little cash, since cards are rarely accepted.