Monchique is the Algarve with the beach taken away. The town sits on the slope of the Serra de Monchique, a range of old volcanic rock that rises behind the coast and catches the rain and mist that the shore misses. The air is cooler, the slopes are thick with cork oak, chestnut and eucalyptus, and the whole mood is rural and quiet. The highest point, Fóia, reaches around nine hundred metres, the highest in the Algarve, and a road runs to the top for a wide view over the coast.
The town has a long history of using what the hills provide. Hot springs at Caldas de Monchique were used by the Romans and are still the basis of a small spa village below the town. The local produce includes smoked ham and sausages, honey, chestnuts, and the fiery spirit called medronho, distilled from the fruit of the strawberry tree. In recent years wildfires have burned parts of the range, and the regrowth is visible on many slopes, which is a sobering reminder of how dry the region can be in summer.
For riders, Monchique offers one of the best escapes from the coast. The roads climb from Portimão and Silves in a series of bends, with the sea dropping away behind you and pine and cork forests closing in. The surface is generally good, the corners are of medium speed and the road to Fóia is steep and twisting with wide views at the top. Cloud and fog often gather on the summit while the coast stays sunny, so a spare layer is sensible. Midday heat is strong in summer, so mornings and evenings are the best times for the climb.
With about five thousand people, Monchique has fuel, shops, cafes and several restaurants, mostly serving hearty mountain dishes, such as pork with chestnuts and local sausage. Marmelete to the west and São Marcos da Serra to the east are small villages nearby. Try a glass of medronho in moderation, since you are riding, and a slice of honey cake before going back down to the coast.