Monção sits on the Minho river, which here forms the border with Spain, and you can see the Galician town of Salvatierra de Miño from the riverbank, close enough to wave at. For centuries this frontier was a front line, and the old fortress walls of Monção, with their bastions, tell that story. The town's most famous tale dates from the fourteenth century, when it was besieged and food ran short. The besieged are said to have thrown bread at the enemy, who believed the town still had plenty of supplies and gave up. The heroine of the story is remembered as Deu-la-Deu Martins, and her name is attached to the town's heritage to this day.
Monção is better known today for its wine. Alvarinho is a white grape that thrives in the damp, mild climate of this river valley, and it makes crisp, aromatic wine that has won fans well beyond Portugal. Vineyards line the slopes along the river, and many cellars offer tastings. The town also has hot springs, and its small centre of squares, cafes and old houses is a pleasant place to stroll.
The N202 follows the Minho upstream and downstream, with gentle curves, river views and the Spanish shore opposite. It is a quiet, rural road through villages and vineyards, better for a relaxed ride than for hard riding. Away from the river, the roads climb into the hills toward the Peneda-Gerês country, where the landscape becomes rockier and wilder. In winter, mist and rain are common, but in summer the mornings are lovely, with soft light on the river and the smell of cut grass and wet earth.
Monção has just under twenty thousand residents, so fuel, supermarkets and restaurants are readily available. The border here is open, and the river is crossed by bridge, so a quick trip into Spain is easy if you carry your documents. Locals eat lamprey in season from the river, and the food of the area is solid and filling. A glass of Alvarinho on a terrace near the old walls makes the best stop of all.