Between November and March, the fir forests on the mountains of central Mexico turn orange. Millions of monarch butterflies, which have flown some four thousand kilometres from Canada and the northern United States, cluster on the oyamel firs at about three thousand metres, hanging in dense clusters that bend the branches. In the warmth of the sun they open their wings and fly, and the air fills with soft movement, a sound like rain falling on leaves. Nobody knows exactly how they find the place, since the generation that arrives has never made the trip before, and the mystery adds to the wonder. The Monarch Butterfly Biosphere Reserve, on the border of Michoacan and the State of Mexico, protects the wintering grounds and was listed as a World Heritage site in 2008.
Cerro Pelon, one of the sanctuaries on the ride, is a steep walk or a horse ride from the village, and at that altitude the air is thin and cold, so take your time. The visit has to be on foot, and local guides lead groups to the colonies. The best time to see the butterflies in flight is on a sunny late morning between January and early March. Logging, a threat for years, has been restricted, but the forest remains under pressure, and local communities have found income in guiding.
The road in is half the day. From Aculco, you cross hills and valleys of farmland and then climb into the mountains, with narrow roads, hairpins, fog and sudden showers. Michoacan roads can be broken in places, and trucks carrying timber and produce share the narrow bends. Take warm clothing: it can be near freezing at the sanctuaries at dawn, and wet and windy in the afternoons. The old mining town of Angangueo, nearby, has colourful streets and small restaurants.
Fuel is the thing to plan. Small towns on the way, like San Nicolas Guadalupe, have little in the way of services, and the bigger town of Zitacuaro, on the main road, has stations and hotels. In the villages near the reserve, you will find simple lodgings and kitchens serving tortillas, beans, trout and fresh cheese. Keep your distance from the butterflies and avoid touching them: their wings are fragile, and a crowd makes it harder for them to rest.