Mombasa is an island, and that single fact explains its history. A small coral island lies between two inlets on Kenya's coast, joined to the mainland by causeways and a bridge, with a deep natural harbour that made it one of the great ports of the Indian Ocean. Arab, Persian, Indian and Portuguese traders came here for centuries, bringing cloth, spices and slaves and leaving behind a coastal Swahili culture that mixes African and Arab elements.
Fort Jesus, built by the Portuguese between 1593 and 1596, squats at the harbour mouth, its thick coral-stone walls a reminder of the fierce competition for the coast. Control passed between the Portuguese and the Omani Arabs for a century, and the fort changed hands many times. It is now a museum and World Heritage site. The old town around it has narrow lanes, carved wooden doors, balconies and mosques, with a hot, salty smell of spices, fish and diesel. Tusk-shaped arches on Moi Avenue mark the main street.
The riding is hot, humid and lively. Traffic is dense, with matatus, tuk-tuks, lorries from the port and motorcycle taxis, so confidence and patience help. Roads outside the island lead north toward Malindi and Kilifi, through coconut palms and baobab trees, with sea views and fishing villages, and south toward Diani Beach after the Likoni ferry. The surface can be rough, with potholes. The hottest months are February and March, and the long rains come in April and May.
Fuel is available all over Mombasa and along the main roads. Food is a joy: coconut-rich fish curries, biryani, mahamri, a spiced fried bread, and nyama choma, grilled meat. Fresh coconut water and sugar-cane juice are sold by the roadside. Kaya Jibana, one of the sacred forests of the Mijikenda people, lies in the hinterland, and the kayas are protected as World Heritage for the way communities have kept their spiritual forests. Ask permission and a local guide, and respect local customs.