Molls Gap is named after Moll Kissane, who kept a shebeen here in the nineteenth century, an unlicensed pub where the road builders were sold illicit whiskey as they cut the highway through the mountains. The road, the N71 between Kenmare and Killarney, tops the pass at about 260 metres, and the view from the car park at the summit is among the finest in the south-west of Ireland, looking over the wild peaks of Macgillycuddy's Reeks, the lakes of Killarney National Park and the deep green valleys below. The gap itself is a natural notch in the hills, and the small building at the top, a café and craft shop, has been serving tea to travellers for years.
The road from Kenmare climbs in a series of broad curves through bare, rocky country, with sheep wandering along the verges and the streams running brown with peat. On the Killarney side, it descends past Ladies View, where Queen Victoria's ladies-in-waiting stopped to admire the scenery during her visit in 1861, and the overlook gives a panorama of the Upper Lake and the oakwoods below. The surface is generally good, the bends are wide and the gradients are moderate, and it is a fine, relaxed ride. In summer it can be busy, with coaches and cars crowding the viewpoints, and the car parks fill at midday.
The Ring of Kerry traffic often stops here, and the view is the reason. Early morning, before the coaches arrive, is the best time, with light mist in the valleys and the peaks emerging from the cloud. Rain and cloud are common, and a clear day is a treat. The wind on the gap can be strong and cold, even in summer, so bring a layer.
The Killarney National Park, the first in Ireland, is a haven of oakwood, yew, arbutus and waterfalls, home to Ireland's only native herd of red deer, which roam the woods and hills. The lakes, Lough Leane, Muckross and the Upper Lake, are linked by streams and framed by mountains, and the scenery is some of the best in the country. The Black Valley, a remote glen south of the Reeks, is one of the last places in Ireland to have received electricity.
Killarney, about seventeen kilometres to the north-east, is the nearest large town, with stations, shops and plenty of restaurants, and Kenmare, to the south-west, is smaller but has the basics. Fill up before the climb, and enjoy a cup of tea with a scone at the café.