The tomb of Mollah Hassan Kashi lies a short walk from the Soltaniyeh dome, a small square building with a conical or domed roof and a courtyard that has been a place of local pilgrimage for centuries. Kashi means from Kashan, the city famous for tilework, and the name suggests a scholar or religious teacher who came from there, a figure of the later Islamic centuries after the Ilkhanids had gone. What I do know is that the tombs of holy men and scholars gathered around Soltaniyeh long after the court had left, because the great mausoleum gave the place an air of sanctity.
Like many shrines in Iran, it works as a small community centre. People come to tie strips of cloth to the railing, to light a candle, or to sit and read the Quran in the shade. The tilework on the facade may include blue and green glaze in the Kashan tradition, and the decorative bands of calligraphy are worth a look. If the door is open, a visit takes only a few minutes, but the atmosphere of unhurried devotion is what stays with you.
Zanjan province has a cold continental climate, and the village near the shrine sits high on a plateau where winter can bring deep snow and spring thaws turn the tracks to mud. Mud-brick houses with flat roofs and chimneys cluster along the road, and storks nest on the old walls in spring. Rain is rare in summer, and the dust that blows across the plain coats the roadside bushes and the wing mirrors of passing trucks.
On a motorbike, the best approach is a slow ride around the farm tracks, with frequent stops. The main road is smooth but busy with trucks, so use the side lanes whenever possible, taking care at junctions where drivers rarely signal. Water points are scarce, so carry plenty. The nearest towns for fuel and meals are Abhar, about thirty-five kilometres off, and Zanjan, which is a bit further. In either, a plate of rice with grilled chicken and a glass of doogh, a salted yoghurt drink, will set you up for the afternoon.