Mokhotlong is the remote capital of eastern Lesotho, a small town at about 2,200 metres where the road stops pretending to be easy. Its name is said to mean place of the bald ibis, after the rare, red-billed bird that nests on the cliffs in the area, and the town sits in a bowl of brown and green hills, with stone houses and tin roofs spreading up the slopes. In winter, snow often covers the highest ridges, and morning frost is a reliable companion, so riders should come prepared for cold.
The town is a trading post for the highlands. Shepherds ride in on Basotho ponies wrapped in thick woollen blankets, wearing rubber boots and the conical straw hat called a mokorotlo, and shop for maize meal, sugar and tobacco. The blankets, made in pastel and bold patterns, are a symbol of the country and a practical protection against the cold. Life here moves slowly, with a market, a hospital, and a few restaurants and guesthouses catering to the odd overlander.
For riders, the great attraction is the pass that begins above town. The Sani Pass climbs between Lesotho and KwaZulu-Natal, rising almost a thousand metres in a short distance on a steep, rough gravel track with tight hairpins, and the Lesotho side, where this ride starts, is the less frequently ridden direction. At the top stands a border post and a small chalet claiming to be the highest pub in Africa, at around 2,870 metres. You need a passport, the correct vehicle papers and sensible planning, and the pass can close in snow or heavy rain, so check conditions with locals.
Mokhotlong has fuel, though supplies can run short and prices vary, so fill the tank when you can, and carry some extra if your bike has a limited range. Food is simple and hearty, with maize porridge, stew, and fresh bread, and the people are friendly and curious. Roads beyond town are partly paved and partly gravel, and distances take longer than expected, so give yourself spare daylight. The Afriski resort, a small ski area in the north, shows how seriously the winter weather can be taken in these mountains.