Mogi das Cruzes is a big city on the eastern fringe of São Paulo, with more than three hundred thousand people, and for a rider heading toward the Serra do Mar and the coast it is the practical last stop before the road gets serious. It sits on the Tietê river valley in a landscape of low hills and market gardens, with the mountains of the Serra do Mar forming a dark wall to the south. The city has a large community of Japanese descent, who settled in the area in the early twentieth century and made it a centre of vegetable and flower growing, and you will see their mark in the markets, restaurants and festivals.
The city's main festival is the Festa do Divino, a religious celebration with processions, music and food that has taken place for generations. The old centre has a cathedral, small squares and shops, and the surroundings include parks of Atlantic forest that survive in patches between the farms and suburbs. The air is warm and humid, and in summer afternoon thunderstorms are common, with heavy rain that can make the roads slick in minutes.
As a fuel stop, Mogi is simple. The city has many stations along the main roads, open for long hours, and prices are in line with the São Paulo region. The traffic around the city can be heavy, especially at rush hours and on weekends, with lorries, buses and cars sharing the highways. If you are heading for the coast, an early start helps you beat the worst of it. Take care at junctions and on the multi-lane roads, where drivers can be aggressive and lane discipline is loose.
Food is cheap and good. Small restaurants serve the Brazilian plate of rice, beans, meat and salad, and the Japanese influence gives you the chance to try sushi, noodle dishes or a pastel, a fried pastry filled with cheese or meat, bought from a market stall. Coffee is strong and sweet, and a pão de queijo, cheese bread, is a good snack for the road.
Beyond the city, the road begins to climb toward the Serra do Mar and the coast, with forest closing in and the temperature dropping. Check your tyres and lights, carry a rain jacket and fill the tank fully, because the mountain sections have fewer stations. Brazil drives on the right, and local riders are quick, so keep a safe distance and stay alert.