The Jizera river flows past Mnichovo Hradiště on its way to the Elbe, and the town sits at the western gate of the Bohemian Paradise, the Český ráj, a landscape of sandstone towers, forest and ruined castles that was the first protected landscape area in the former Czechoslovakia. It is a quiet, orderly town of about eight thousand people with a square, a large baroque castle and the unhurried feel of a place that has been burnt, rebuilt and forgotten several times over.
The castle is the main thing to see. It belonged for centuries to the Waldstein family, the line of Albrecht von Wallenstein, the Thirty Years' War general who was at once the most powerful and the most feared man in Bohemia, and it later passed to the Thun-Hohenstein family. The grounds are formal and the interiors are in an old noble style. The town also has a battlefield from the Austro-Prussian war of 1866, when Prussian troops pushed back Austrian and Saxon forces here in a short, sharp fight on the way to the decisive battle at Königgrätz.
For riding, Mnichovo Hradiště is a good place to start. From here, roads run east through gently rolling country toward Turnov and Jičín, between fields, forests and villages with steep red roofs. They are not fast roads, but they are pleasant ones, with moderate traffic, a handful of tight bends and occasional rough patches. Sandstone outcrops begin to appear as you move toward the rocks, and the landscape becomes more dramatic. Watch for cyclists and for tractors, and be careful on wet days when leaves or mud can cover the surface.
The town has fuel, supermarkets and several places to eat, so it is a sensible place to stock up before entering the quieter villages. Czech inns serve hearty dishes such as svíčková, beef in a creamy vegetable sauce with dumplings, and a glass of local lager goes well with it, although it is best saved for the evening. A pastry and a coffee in the square is a pleasant way to start.
Come in spring, when the orchards flower, or in early autumn, when the light is low and the forests turn gold. Summer weekends can be busy, so mornings are best.