Miyanomae is a name that looks mysterious but means something simple: in front of the shrine. It is a neighbourhood in the old mining town of Omori, in the valley of the Iwami Ginzan silver mine, and the name tells you how the town was arranged. Shrines and temples were scattered through the valley, and the houses of miners, officials and merchants gathered around them along the narrow, curving road that is the spine of Omori.
The town today is a preserved district, listed in the 1980s as an Important Preservation District for Groups of Traditional Buildings, and walking through it is a gentle experience. The houses are low, wooden, plastered in white and brown, with dark tile roofs and latticed windows, and the lane is lined with small shops, cafes and galleries in restored buildings. A stream runs beside the road, and the hills rise steeply on both sides, covered in cedar and bamboo. Life here is slow, and on a quiet weekday morning you will hear birds and water more than engines.
For riders the approach is through the valley from Oda, along narrow roads under thick forest, with some tight bends and little traffic. You must park at the visitor lot at the edge of the district and walk in; bikes are not welcome on the old street itself. It is about ten minutes on foot to the heart of the town, and the walk is a pleasure, past bridges and moss-covered walls. In rain, the cobbles and stones are slippery, so take care.
Fuel and food come from Oda, some eleven kilometres away, and there are only a few simple cafes in the valley. This stop belongs to a long ride toward Itsukushima Shrine at Miyajima, a very long way south-east across the Chugoku mountains, so an early start and a full tank are important. Autumn leaves colour the valley beautifully, and spring brings fresh green and the sound of frogs from the little paddies.