Mission San José is known as the Queen of the Missions, and it earns the title. Founded in 1720, it grew into the largest and most complete of the San Antonio missions, a walled community with a church, granary, workshops, a mill and rows of small apartments for the indigenous families who lived inside. The compound still has much of its outer wall, and walking through the gate gives a sense of the size of the settlement. The church is the centerpiece, built in the late eighteenth century with a facade of carved limestone that is more ornate than anything else in the city.
The best-known detail is the Rose Window, a small, intricately carved opening on the side of the sacristy, which legend ties to the sculptor Pedro Huizar and to a love story, though the truth is harder to pin down. The stonework around the main doorway is full of scrollwork, saints and floral carvings, and the whole facade seems to glow in the late afternoon sun. The granary and the working gristmill, partly restored, show how the mission fed itself, and an old irrigation ditch still runs along one side.
The ride to San José is a pleasant stretch along the Mission Trail. South of downtown, Roosevelt Avenue and Mission Road take you past residential streets, old trees and a few old stone buildings. The San Antonio River Walk extends here in a quieter, more natural form called the Mission Reach, and you can see herons, turtles and the occasional egret from the bank. Summers are hot and humid, and the best time to ride is early or late in the day. A morning visit means softer light and fewer visitors.
The mission is part of San Antonio Missions National Historical Park, and it is also a living parish, with services held in the church. Visitors should act accordingly. A small visitor center has maps and a short film. Entry to the grounds is free, though special tours and events may have fees.
Fuel and food are easy to find along Roosevelt Avenue, and nearby neighborhoods have plenty of Mexican bakeries and taquerias. Stop for a plate of barbacoa or a fresh tortilla, and you have the taste of the place.